Moat Mountain Kearsarge Kolsch: Lager’s Cousin Has Come For A Visit

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Wed, May 25 - 12:26 am EDT | 2 years ago by
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Moat Mountain Kearsarge Kolsch

A Kolsch is quite often a very safe bet. Light, fizzy, lager-y even, it is another of those beers which to many serve as a bridge from water domestic bath water to better, more flavorful beer. Moat Mountain, from my experience has thus far proven to be a brewery that does not seek so aggressively to put a spin on, or redefine a style, but rather simply take it on and do it as authentically as they can.

This kolsch from them in my estimation, has done just about exactly that. Golden and clear, the beer fizzes with a short-lived white head, followed by a steady but interspersed series of bubble chains floating up from the bottom. Smelling of a lager style malt, hints of yeast and wheat linger in the nose as well.

At a sip, it is both crisp and smooth, while also somewhat grainy in its underlying texture. Somewhere in the land between hefe weissen and lager, the kolsch appears as a curious sort of creature in this sense. Akin to kellerbier, another lighter, golden yet still somewhat gritty brew, its opening flavors have hints of citrus and a low tone, almost honey sweetness.

An extraordinarily easy sipper, this is a brew which begs to be enjoyed in the summertime. Ideally served chilled, it is flavorful enough to where I would advise against over-chilling if one seeks the maximum enjoyment. Fine enough out of an ice chest, the brew does possess characteristics in its subtle malt profile which could be lost in too much of a deep freeze.

One of New Hampshire’s longest serving commercial craft breweries, Moat Mountain has recently been making moves into newer territories throughout and around New England. Though I have not yet had this brew on draft as of yet, experience tells me it likely taps well. This being the case, at nominal 4.9% abv, the notion of a cold kolsch such as this with a greasy roadhouse burger in the middle of a day’s riding does sound appealing to my biker’s mind.

Furthermore, such is genuinely a style which, in my experience as a beer-seller, has proven to be of the sort which spans tastes and impressions. Whether one is a seasoned craft beer enthusiast seeking a chilled summer sipper, or an ordinary domestic swill drinker looking to try something of a higher caliber than the ordinary rank and file rat piss that can be found in thirty-pack suitcases, the kolsch is a style which is as enjoyable as it is inoffensive. In this, we find yet another lager cousin which just about everyone can enjoy together and typically without much in the way of heavy booziness, overt taste and flavor profile or really any form of aggression whatsoever.

This all being the case though, such is unto itself a pleasurable easy sip from a respectable and earnest brewery. It is to this end that to Moat Mountain, to the crispness of summer brews and of course to you, that I say as always…


While the brand may have provided the product mentioned above for free, I was not required to write a positive review, I did not receive any monetary compensation, and the honest opinions I have expressed are my own.

Nicholas Goroff is an actor, writer and craft beer reviewer at Certified as a Cicerone beer server, he is working towards obtaining certification as a beer judge while employed at Bert’s Better Beers in Hooksett, NH. When not reviewing beer, wine and spirits, he is typically writing political essays, screenplays and short fiction. Follow him on Twitter @wizardofcause.

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