Cognac Basics

Cognac is the probably the most famous kind of brandy. Like true champagne, only brandy that is from the Charente and Charente Maritime areas, north of Bordeaux can be legally labeled Cognac. The chalky soil, climate and proximity to the ocean offer an interesting advantage for vineyards. This combination produces a thin, acidic white wine, which no one would want, but it is perfect for distilling brandy.

There are three grape varieties grown in Cognac – Ugni Blanc, Colombard, and Folle Blanche. The area itself is also divided up in to three sections – forest (bois), champs (fields) and champagne (open fields). When you see “champagne” on a cognac label, it’s got nothing to do with the sparkling wine, but instead where the grapes were grown.

The foundation of all Cognac production is based in a tradition dating back to the seventeenth century. The wine is double-distilled in traditional pot stills which can hold up to 660 gallons.  The first distillation produces something called “brouillis” which distills out at 60 proof (30% ABV). This goes through the distillation process again and produces a clear young raw spirit called “bonne chauffe”. This comes out at 140 proof, and the middle section of the distillation is what yields the best and purest quality.

All Cognac is aged for several years, for a minimum of 2 years to be able to be sold in the US, but in many cases, Cognac can be aged 20 or more years. The oak casks Cognac is aged in are very porous, which exposes the spirit to slow, continuous oxidation. The brandy also picks up color, tannins and flavor from the oak. The aging process takes the harsh, hair-curling distillate into a smooth, harmonious spirt.

Aside from a few exceptions, the Cognac you get in the stores is always a blend of Cognacs of various ages, sources and vintages. The blending is done so that the character and quality that marks each brand is consistent over a long period of time.

The cognac labels generally have lots of markings on them which can tell you the minimum age of the spirit. It would take years to list them all here, but there are a few common ways to tell:

Cognacs that have been aged for a minimum of two years counting from April 1 following the distillation can be labeled *** (three or more stars) and V.S. or V.S.P.

Aged for a minimum of four years can be labeled V.S.O.P.

Aged for a minimum of six years can be labeled Extra; Napoleon or X.O.

There isn’t a designation for anything aged more than six years, so the makers use proprietary names: Triomphe, Tres Venerable, Paradis etc.

There are several fantastic drinks that can be made using Cognac, including the traditional Sazerac and the Sidecar, and then some modern cocktails like the Intrigue and the Garlic Affair.

Garlic Affair

1 oz Martell VS Cognac
1/2 oz apricot brandy
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
ginger beer
garlic clove

Gently muddle the garlic in the bottom of a shaker. Add the remaining ingredients. Shake well. strain into a highball filled with ice. Top with ginger beer. Garnish with a wedge of lime and a maraschino cherry.

Intrigue

1 2/3 oz Cognac
1.5 oz white creme de cacao
1/5 oz dry white wine
2/3 oz raspberry puree
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
dash honey syrup

Shake all ingredients with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a raspberry and mint leaves.

[images: Wikimedia Commons & Remy Martin]